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如何

酥脆的甜菜隐藏温暖的巧克力馅

Rich Ganache是​​这些小巧的油条的核心

精细烹饪问题35
Photos: Ben Fink
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About six years ago, I had to create a dessert for a contest. I wanted to make something warm and chocolatey that wasn’t just another warm chocolate cake. So I began by experimenting with different techniques for cooking chocolate, eventually getting hooked on the idea of frying it, like fried ice cream. I rolled it in different kinds of coatings, like nuts, to protect it, but it would always explode or melt.

Then I came up with the idea of using a dough as the coating—making, in essence, a filled fritter orbeignet(发音为Ben-Yay)。面团将为巧克力提供很多保护,同时仍然保持轻盈酥脆。面团的味道相当中立,因此可以让温暖的巧克力成为明星。有效。我没有赢得比赛(我认为实际上是一个温暖的巧克力蛋糕),但是我对自己的新作品感到非常满意,而Brasserie Perrier的顾客也是我的糕点厨师。

外面是一个简单的酵母面团

My early experiments were with different kinds of batters and doughs—first a tempura batter, but that was too crunchy. Next, I folded in whipped egg whites, but the result was too spongy and greasy. I ended up liking the results I got with what is essentially a brioche dough, a yeast dough enriched with eggs and butter.

只要您关注关键点,就可以轻松地制作面团 - 我在立式搅拌机中做到这一点。像牛奶的温度一样;它应该是温暖的,但不要太热,否则会杀死酵母。将所有成分添加到混合器中后,面团看起来块状,但请放心betway电子竞技俱乐部。随着麸质的发展,随着它的持续混合,它变得光滑和弹性。实际上,几乎不可能过度混杂这个面团,而且至关重要的是不要将其混合,这会产生一个非常湿的面团,当您尝试塑造它时会撕裂。您可以通过拉伸面团来说明面团已经准备好:润滑您的手,拿起面团的质量,然后轻轻伸展。它应该具有足够的弹性,可以延伸几英寸,而不会撕裂或破裂。

一旦面团是正确的一致性,它就需要休息并冷却,以便您可以在不发疯的情况下使用它。由于它的休息,它将证明(或上升),这不是理想的选择,因为我发现一个通风的面团会产生非常海绵状的甜菜。如果面团看起来好像已经上升了很多,那就轻轻地将其推入碗中。

The center’s nothing but a truffle—yum

The filling is basically a ganache—which is what’s at the center of a truffle—and it’s quite easy to make: just pour hot cream over chopped chocolate and whisk until melted and smooth. You may end up with a few unmelted lumps, which you can take care of by popping the bowl of ganache over a water bath for a few seconds. Just be careful not to use too much heat or you’ll scorch the chocolate or cause the mixture to separate.

对于这个基本的Ganache,我添加了一些我已经软化的无盐黄油,因此非常非常柔软,但不融化或油腻。法语术语是en pommade(pronounced ahn poh-MAHD), meaning it’s like cold cream, as in Pond’s cold cream. The butter gives the ganache great flavor and a satiny-smooth body, but it is a bit tricky to incorporate it. You must be sure the ganache is still liquid—so that the butter is easy to blend in with a whisk or an immersion blender—yet completely cool, or you’ll melt the butter, which will separate and leave a greasy texture and flavor.

用羊皮纸或蜡纸对烤盘排成一张。将糕点袋装上一个大尖端,然后用甘纳奇(Ganache)装满袋子。将50至60个斑点输出,围绕麦芽牛奶球的大小。

瞄准光滑的中心,紧紧包裹

You want to make truffle-size balls of ganache that are completely smooth and are all the same size. You can roll the ganache with your hands, use a tiny ice-cream scoop, or do what I do, which is to fill a pastry bag and pipe out the balls. This is easiest if you let the ganache harden slightly by leaving it at cool room temperature, but pay attention so that it stays pliable and doesn’t become too hard to pipe or scoop. After you’re finished piping, you can tap down any points that may have formed so that they won’t rip the pastry wrapping. The final step is to freeze the ganache balls to give them a bit of protection from the hot oil so they don’t melt too fast during cooking.

包裹松露中心有两个技巧,aside from working very fast so the dough doesn’t begin to proof and the ganache doesn’t start to melt. First, cover the center completely. If there are any holes or weak seams, the chocolate will leak out during frying and make a mess. Second, once you’ve wrapped the center with dough, pinch off any excess to make a very thin coating, which will translate into a light layer of fried dough.

使用热的新鲜油。请不要拥挤

The first ingredient to put on your list when you make this dessert is a fresh bottle of oil. You don’t want to use oil you’ve used for anything else, and even a hint of rancidity from an old bottle will ruin the effect of the crunchy but delicate coating. I recommend peanut, canola, or safflower oil

我在相当热的温度(350°F)上炸甜菜,该温度很好地呈褐色,并将其密封在巧克力中。如果您使用普通的锅,则只需要一次炸一些锅即可保持油温稳定;如果您添加太多的冷面团球,温度将下降,而您的甜菜将开始吸收过多的油。另外,如果油太酷,面团会变成灰色,巧克力会漏出。甜菜也倾向于像软木塞一样漂浮,因此请立即将其推下油,然后将其推到褐变。

A do-ahead strategy makes beignets great for parties。您可以在装满塑料的烤盘上塑造和包裹甜菜(最多两天)(最多两天)。(不要让他们彼此触摸,或者面团包裹可能会粘贴并撕裂。您只希望面团解冻,但不要变得太软或开始上升。如果甜菜看起来有点浮肿或不均匀,请面粉面粉并再次滚动。现在,只需按照上述指示而煎炸。

I like to serve the truffle beignets really hot, with just a dusting of confectioners’ sugar for looks, and with a cool sauce such as霜安格莱斯或新鲜的水果库里斯。您需要记住,这些小宝石包含一个非常热的液体巧克力中心。您将很想捡起一个并将其弹出,但是请使用叉子!

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