季节后期农场台提供的财富是多么尴尬 - 一系列诱人的华丽蔬菜乞求购买，带回家和烹饪。因此，您买了一个或更多。您可以炒或蒸一些简单的配菜，做一两个汤，也许您甚至将其中的几种烤在一起。But a question I’m often asked is how to combine vegetables into something bigger—something that has more stature than a simple side dish, more heft than a minestrone, and more substance than a stir-fry—and with all the vegetables properly cooked. You’ll find one answer in main-dish vegetable stews, or ragoûts.

Keep a plan in mind

Ragoût (pronounced ra-GOO) is how the French say “stew,” but in my experience with these vegetable dishes, as soon as you say the word stew, your friends look at you quizzically and ask, “But where’s the meat?” Also, a stew suggests long hours of cooking, and the recipes here are done in an hour or less. So, I like ragoût, which to me simply implies several elements united through gentle cooking.

While ragoûts are an improvisational type of dish, you can’t exactly use a kitchen-sink approach when it comes to composing them, either. Here are some pointers to consider when you find yourself wondering what to include in a vegetable ragoût.

Limit yourself to about five vegetables,而且绝对不超过七个。如果元素太多，这道菜会变得混乱。旨在使风味，质地，形状，尺寸和颜色之间保持平衡，并将蔬菜切成相当大的，可识别的碎片，约一到两英寸。当切得太大时，它们会花费更长的时间烹饪，而切得太小时，它们会变得模糊。

选择同时季节的蔬菜。这是考虑ragoût组合时永远不会失败的指南。在夏季和初秋，尝试贝壳豆，绿豆，西葫芦或帕蒂班南瓜和西红柿农舍rago-。In fall and early winter, try artichokes, potatoes, shallots, and fennel, as in the朝鲜蓟rago图与葱和茴香;当第一批朝鲜蓟进来时，这也很好（当时，您可能会使用春季韭菜代替秋季葱和chervil而不是迷迭香）。春天也是制作豌豆，芦笋，胡萝卜和菠菜的好时机。将您当地的农贸市场作为一个季节的灵感来源。与往常一样，可以找到您可以找到的最新鲜的蔬菜。

使用土豆时，请选择低淀粉品种。If the potatoes are organic, keep the skins on to provide additional color and nutritional value. Low-starch potatoes will hold their shape in the stew better than higher starch varieties like russets. Look for small potatoes like Red Bliss, creamers, or fingerlings, which, depending on their size, need only be halved or quartered (or even left whole if they’re about the size of a large marble).

Other starchy ingredients like cooked chickpeas or big, fat dried heirloom beans such as gigantes or runner beans make great additions to a ragoût, too. I’ve found, though, that the best way to ensure that they maintain their shape and don’t get mushy is to cook them separately and add them near the end of cooking, allowing enough time for them to meld with the other elements. The broth from the cooked beans can be added to the ragoût in case it needs a bit more liquid.

很少有蔬菜对ragot来说是错误的，但是有一对我认为工作不好。远离红色甜菜，因为它们将所有东西都变成红色。（另一方面，金甜菜都很好。）地瓜是如此淀粉，以至于它们倾向于在ragotial中得到Mealy。

Get a tasty start with an oniony flavor base

When cooking a ragoût, it helps to have a bit of a plan in mind and to think in steps. That way, the vegetables will be cooked to the right degree and the stew will have layers of flavor. See Timing vegetables for best texture for guidelines on cooking times.

定时蔬菜以获得最佳质地

Cooking a stewpot full of vegetables can be tricky. Here are loose guidelines for adding them to a ragoût once the onion base is gently browned. Vegetables are listed in descending order; cut them into 1- to 2-inch pieces when appropriate.

首先，从可靠的基础开始：alliums (shallots, onions, scallions, garlic, leeks, or a combination) sautéed in butter or olive oil. This would also be the time to add hardy herbs like thyme, rosemary, or bay leaf (I’ll get to the more delicate ones in a moment), as well as a bit of spice, such as cayenne or red pepper flakes. It’s important not to hurry this initial flavor-building step. Give the sautéed ingredients time enough to mingle and take on some color and you’ll be rewarded with a tastier ragoût.

一旦洋葱被轻轻变成褐色，加入最长的烹饪蔬菜，例如胡萝卜（顺便说一句，通常比其他任何东西都需要更长的时间）和其他根蔬菜。让它们软化并在锅中颜色稍微颜色。然后，继续进行近乎最长的烹饪蔬菜，然后继续（农舍ragout的序列是了解如何订购事物的好方法）。

蔬菜开始软化后，加入一些液体。它可以是蔬菜汤，鸡汤，水，小酒，甚至是您可能从其他蔬菜中节省的烹饪液体。例如，如果您使用西红柿，它们的果汁通常提供足够的液体来丰富您的ragoût。在这些食谱中，我呼吁足够的液体将蔬菜煮熟。这样就可以与蔬菜汁结合在一起，并在烤肉烹饪时还原成美味的肉汤。

Make a simple braise by layering vegetables in sequence

In the final minutes of cooking, add delicate greens and herbs.Spinach will need just a minute or two. At this point, I like to add tender herbs, such as parsley, chervil, or basil, too. See Finishing touches boost flavor for more ideas on last-minute finishing touches that will add flavor.

无论您选择哪种蔬菜，您都需要缠结并悬停的东西，而不仅仅是走开。没有两个会一样 - 我从来没有做过我不喜欢的。

完成触摸会增强风味，并将rago -ugot

当完成那只可爱的嫩蔬菜锅时，通常会触摸终结，这只是有助于统一和调味的风味的东西。

• 切碎的欧芹和大蒜在食用前搅拌或洒上时会添加颜色和风味。就像我对Artichoke ragout所做的那样，可以通过添加磨碎的柠檬皮来改变这种切碎的混合物。尽管欧芹是命名persillade的草药，但您也可以使用Fresh Chervil，Tarragon，Dill，Basil或Mix。
• A drizzle of fruity olive oil adds richness and helps emulsify the liquid into a sauce, as does a pat of sweet butter. I like to stir the butter in just before spooning the ragoût into soup plates, while olive oil is especially nice drizzled on each individual dish. For the Farmhouse Ragoût, a purée made with basil and olive oil nicely rounds out the dish.
• 挤压新鲜的柠檬汁或您最喜欢的醋将统一口味，并将其脱颖而出。在上菜之前添加它，因为当酸与蔬菜坐在一起时，颜色开始褪色。