我长大后吃了母亲的鸡肉小伙子，酱油和炖牛肉。像许多家庭经典一样，这些菜肴都炖了。当然，当我还是个孩子的时候，甚至在1980年代开始在餐馆做饭时，我都没有考虑过。那时，布雷辛的风格过时。快速烹饪方法，例如烧烤，榨汁，毛躁和融合，引起了所有人的关注。现代高级美食无处可容纳温和的淡淡，慢烤或其他传统的放松烹饪技术。betway体育投注

Oh yeah?

I first realized how much I was missing by ignoring braising, the most grand of the old techniques, soon after I became the chef at Mondrian in New York City. I was working on creating a dish that built layers of texture and deep flavor. I wanted subtlety, not flash.

我想煮一只婴儿羊肉。我立即知道我会烤腿，腰部和架子。但是最初，我对动物的剩余严格割伤的努力感到茫然。然后这让我感到震惊 - 小腿和肩膀将是完美的炖。我将烤架和慢慢煮的柄与用炖液制成的酱汁一起煮熟。这道菜很受欢迎，但更重要的是，我重新发现了炖。在菜单之后，首先在Mondrian，然后在Gramercy Tavern，现在在Craft上，我寻求融化的嫩嫩作品，包括曾经被忽视的肉类肉，如猪肉肩，羊腿和牛肉肋骨。这些天，我是一个奉献者，以至于我创建了菜单的特殊部分，只是为炖肉。

What exactly is a braise?

Braising is a method of cooking meats (or fish or vegetables) surrounded by a flavorful broth so the-muscle (or vegetable fiber) becomes succulent and tender.

在本文中，我将重点放在所谓的棕色炖中：肉在汤中煮熟之前变成褐色。随着肉汤的沸腾，它与肉交换了风味。肉汤还略微减少并略微变厚，这一过程将其转化为浓郁的酱汁。

Braising is a technique found in almost every cuisine. The basic method and meat cuts don’t vary too much across borders. What does change is the cook’s choice of aromatic vegetables, cooking liquids, and finishing garnishes.

炖时，最艰难的切割变成了最嫩的

A good braise begins by choosing the right cut of meat. I always reach for the tough but flavorful working parts of an animal. In four-legged animals, this means legs, shoulders, ribs, and even tails. In birds, it means thighs, legs, and wings. These cuts contain soft protein and fat, just as lean, tender meats do, but they also have sinew and connective tissue. This tissue contains collagen, which must cook to about 200°F before it will soften. When you braise meat in a gently simmering liquid, the collagen melts into gelatin, which then bastes the meat to produce a forkably tender result. Braising would ruin a lean, naturally tender sirloin, but it’s perfect for tough, collagen-rich cuts like lamb shanks, beef short ribs, pork shoulder, and chicken legs. Cooking tough cuts slowly not only makes them tender but also makes them taste better. The longer you expose protein to heat, the more flavor you can produce. It takes two to three hours in simmering liquid for a lamb shank to reach an internal temperature of 200°F, all the better for deep flavor.

One pan will do—a Dutch oven is perfect

Pick a pan that will hold the meat and vegetables snugly. Yes, I said snugly. When you brown meat or sauté vegetables, the food needs lots of room in the pan so it sears instead of steams. But when you’re braising, you want as little extra space as possible. A tight fit keeps the cooking nice and slow and regulates the reduction of the cooking liquid. The pan should also have fairly high sides so it can hold enough liquid to surround (though not submerge) the meat. At home, I like to braise in a large, deep cast-iron skillet. A Dutch oven or deep casserole will also work well.

For looks and flavor, don’t rush the browning

Brown braises always start by searing the meat in fat until it’s nicely browned on all sides. Unfortunately, this essential step is often rushed. You should always:

• Brown in small batches. You’ll sear the meat in the same snug pot or pan that you’re going to braise it in, but as I’ve just explained, crowding the pan during this first step would inhibit good browning.So be sure to give the meat the room it needs by browning in batches.

• Use medium or medium-high heat. Choose the heat according to what else you’re doing in the kitchen. Medium gives a slightly deeper caramelization and therefore a somewhat more richly flavored sauce. Medium high (never high) saves time but requires more attention to prevent burning.

• Have patience. Browning the meat will take 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces of-meat-and the size of your pan. This is definitely the aspect of braising that requires the most attention, but the payoff for doing it right is a deeply flavored sauce.

Sauté a flavor base of onions, carrots, and-celery

将肉变成褐色后，将其从锅中取出，这样您就可以煮芳香的蔬菜，这些蔬菜通常是洋葱或韭菜，胡萝卜和芹菜。一些炖肉要求蔬菜煮至奶油，直到它们变软但没有变成褐色，这就是汗水，而另一些则可能需要您褐色。无论哪种方式都很好，但是请确保蔬菜已经完全软化，并将其所有甜果汁释放到锅中。这些果汁为最后一道菜增添了另一层风味。

At this point, you can push the braise in whatever direction you want with the addition of more flavors. The field is wide open here, but the chart below will give you some ideas. Ingredients like herbs, spices, peppers, citrus, mushrooms, tomatoes, and garlic are all excellent choices.

选择您喜欢的液体 - 这是您最终酱汁的骨干

您的烹饪液体也有一些灵活性。它可以是水，汤或番茄酱，也可以是组合。有时，我将葡萄酒或醋作为烹饪液体的一部分，但我真的认为它们是风味促进剂，而不是炖介质（这就是为什么它们位于图表中的调味剂柱中的原因）。当我使用葡萄酒或醋时，我喜欢在添加其他液体之前将其减少一些。

You need to add enough liquid to surround but not submerge the meat—it should just barely skim the meat’s surface. The liquid will reduce as you braise, concentrating the flavor of the sauce and letting the meat cook without poaching.

Braise in the oven or on the stovetop.

The goal is to allow the liquid to simmer slowly; don’t let it creep to a boil or the meat will cook too rapidly and dry out before it gets fully tender. In the oven, 350°F usually gives a nice simmer. On the stovetop, medium heat is usually about right. I prefer the oven for most braises. First, it frees the top of the stove for other projects. Second, I like to braise uncovered. This is a little unconventional, but I find it works very well. Covering the pan cooks the meat with steam, which speeds the process but produces less flavorful meat and sauce. Uncovered oven braising also allows the exposed meat to roast and brown. It does mean that you should turn the meat occasionally during cooking to ensure even browning and moist meat.

The liquid should bubble gently. If it’s too active, turn down the heat, and if it’s too quiet, turn it up. Also, use the opportunity to baste the meat and, if it looks like it’s getting dry, turn it. Braising doesn’t require constant supervision, but the best braise is the result of continued awareness.

肉做的时候温柔足以削减with a fork and begins to pull away from the bone. Let the broth cool to room temperature and then remove the meat from the pan. You’ll need to defat the sauce, easily done with a gravy separator. If you don’t have one, skim off the fat with a spoon. At work, I strain the sauce for a more refined look, but at home, straining isn’t so critical (but do remove any herb stems, bay leaves, or other inedibles). An unstrained sauce will have a relaxed, rustic texture. Either way, reduce the liquid enough so that it’s a little viscous, transforming it from a broth to a sauce.

第二天的烤肉甚至更好

您可以立即提供啤酒，但我通常会尽早为止。确保将酱汁冷藏，使其吸收更多的风味并且不会变干。冻结炖也是一种选择。

当我准备食用这道菜时，我会在酱汁中加热肉，频繁地吹牛，然后让酱汁减少更多 - 可以覆盖木勺的后部。您可以按原样食用炖，也可以添加更多的装饰蔬菜，草药或其他成分，以使风味新鲜提升。betway电子竞技俱乐部我可能会搅拌与肉类煮熟的相同蔬菜的精美版本，或者我可能决定以更涉及的装饰，例如炖的朝鲜蓟或烤西红柿来散发味道。