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如何

丰盛的绿色可以追逐冬季蓝调

学会管理羽衣甘蓝,菠菜和瑞士甜菜等美味多叶蔬菜的嫩或艰难的个性

精心烹饪Issue 42
Photos: Steve Hunter
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Every time I walk through the produce section of the grocery store, the wavy plumes of leafy green vegetables beckon to me, begging to be bought. Invariably, I wind up in a wrestling match with those too-small plastic produce bags, because I can’t resist picking up an extra-large bunch of crisp, curly kale, a frilly thatch of mustard greens, or a clasp of the new electric-hued “Bright Lights” Swiss chard. The truth is, these greens not only look beautiful, but they’re also incredibly satisfying to cook with (and, yes, really good for you, too: they’re high in vitamins A and C, as well as folic acid and calcium).

“Wilt” tender greens; braise heartier ones

I used to get home and wonder what in the world I was going to do with all those greens, but not any more. Working away in my warm kitchen on chilly days, I’ve developed a little repertoire of recipes (side dishes, soups, and light suppers) for cooking these cool-weather greens. In the process, I’ve discovered that greens have different personalities. Some—like beet greens, Swiss chard, and spinach—are so tender that they need only a touch of heat to be cooked. Overcooking them, in fact, tends to alter their flavors in an unpleasant way. While these greens are best “wilted,” the heartier greens, like kale, mustard, collards, and turnip greens, will be tough and leathery unless patiently simmered. The assertive flavors of these greens also mellow with cooking and blend with the aromatics with which they’re cooked.

有一些烹饪蔬菜可以枯萎或炖。您可能会想到煤渣或蒲公英绿色是最适合温暖沙拉的丰盛生菜,但是这两种蔬菜(尤其是年龄较大,更大的叶子)都是美味的炖肉或添加到汤中,尽管烹饪过长,这与非常丰盛的蔬菜不同,它会使非常丰盛的绿色不能改善他们的味道。

要“枯萎”嫩绿色,将它们堆放在煎锅中(最好是不粘),打开热量,然后用钳子将蔬菜扔掉,直到全部崩溃和湿润为止。如果一开始您的蔬菜非常干燥,则需要在锅中加入一汤匙左右的水,但通常在洗涤后剩下的一点点水分就足够了。即使到那时,一些蔬菜(例如菠菜)在枯萎时会散发出大量水分,并且您需要在漏勺中沥干水分,然后再进行食谱,以使水不会稀释成品。最简单的菜肴(例如Wilted Tender Greens with Orange & Ginger),我将排干,枯萎的果岭加回煎锅中,与此同时,我在少许油或黄油中炒了一些美味的味道。扔在一起,结果很美味。枯萎的蔬菜也是烘焙绿ot子,面食馅料或蛋饼和蛋art的方便基础。

洗涤后仅使用水分粘在叶子上,以帮助枯萎的嫩蔬菜。用钳子将它们扔在热量上,直到它们全部崩溃。

为了使绿色更加热心果岭,请先在少量脂肪中枯萎,然后在液体中完成烹饪。为了开始该过程,炒大蒜和姜或洋葱等芳香剂和薄煎饼中的少量油或黄油。加入蔬菜并搅拌直至它们全部枯萎。然后仅加入足够的液体(例如鸡肉或蔬菜汤)来覆盖蔬菜。煮蔬菜,覆盖,直到您喜欢质地。根据蔬菜的年龄和您的口味,这可能是8分钟到半小时的时间(如果您是用坚韧,年龄较大的蔬菜做饭的话)。炖后,如果您想单独食用蔬菜,可以发现并煮沸剩余的液体(作为配菜Garlicky Braised Kale)。或者,您可以在液体中添加煮熟的意大利面,米饭,土豆,豆类或肉类全餐(我将切成薄片的牛肉添加到Spicy Mustard Greens with Asian Noodles)。

在枯萎的羽衣甘蓝中加入小鸡肉,撒上大蒜和晒干的西红柿。然后遮盖并炖至嫩。

果岭喜欢大胆的口味,所以不要退缩

凉爽天气的蔬菜的味道范围从泥土浓郁,几乎具有矿物状的味道(甜菜蔬菜,瑞士甜菜,菠菜)到轻度的卷心菜(羽衣甘蓝和羽衣甘蓝和果酱)到略带苦味和辛辣(芥末绿色,芥末绿色,丹德尔蔬菜)。他们所有人的共同点是具有自信风味的完美婚姻,这似乎使他们的泥土融化并增强了他们的稳健性。准备绿色时,请尝试至少包括以下一种或两种成分:betway电子竞技俱乐部

  • Something smoky or meaty:pancetta, bacon, chorizo, kielbasa, any cured meat.
  • Sweetly pungent aromatics:garlic, onions, fresh ginger (be generous with amounts).
  • An acid or anything spicy:vinegar, lemon juice, hot sauce, red pepper flakes, chile or curry paste, minced hot peppers.
  • 任何奶油(和脂肪):浓奶油,酸奶油,山羊奶酪。

最后类别(奶油)对某些蔬菜的略微粗糙口味特别神奇的效果,使它们获得美味的效果。实际上,Creamy Parmesan Swiss Chard Gratinis an excellent way to introduce greens to people who think they may not like them.

储存之前清洁蔬菜,您会尽快使用它们

To stem tender greens like beets or spinach, simply grab both sides of the leaf and gently pull the stem up and out.
单独的(但不要丢弃),沿茎的两侧伸出一把锋利的刀,就源于叶子。

Before you start cooking, though, you have to come to terms with cleaning and storing your greens. While it’s tempting to cram the greens into some remote corner of the refrigerator when you get home, you’ll be really glad if you take the time to clean them first. While greens tend to last longer unwashed, you’re ten times more likely to use the greens before they go bad if you make them recipe-ready before storing them. And as long as you store your greens properly, they’ll last anywhere from one to three days in the refrigerator; some of the heartier ones, like kale and collards, can last four to five days. If you choose the freshest, most unblemished greens you can find at the market (or out of the garden), you’ll find they last longer at home. For some helpful tips, see How to clean and store leafy greens.

How to clean and store leafy greens

当您回家时,从束中取出任何电线或橡皮筋,然后丢弃任何泛黄或粘的叶子;修剪坚硬的茎末端。您还可以在此时用剪刀,锋利的刀或手去除坚硬的茎,或者可以在烹饪前将茎放在茎上并取出。如果您取出碎屑茎,请保留它们进行烹饪。

填补一个大碗或与冷水和水槽swish the greens around in it. Lift out the greens and empty the silty water from the bowl or sink. Repeat this one or two more times, depending on how dirty the greens are. Let the greens drip-dry on dishtowels and then spin them in a salad spinner (in batches if necessary).

Line the largest zip-top bags you can find (I recently bought jumbo ones for just this purpose) with paper towels. Lay the greens in the bags between the paper towels, close the bag tightly, and refrigerate. The paper towels help absorb excess water to prevent rot, while the sealed bag keeps the greens just moist and crisp enough so they don’t dry out and go limp.

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