在我去意大利的一家餐厅上班之前，我听说过意大利调味饭，但我真的不知道那是什么。不过，我很快就知道了我的学徒。我注意到厨师厨师的Yolanda经常回到炉子上的沸腾锅中。“ Cosa Fai？”我问。“烩饭！”她回头了，很明显一个问题。尤兰达（Yolanda）用一汤匙磨碎的帕米亚诺（Parmigiano）完成了意大利调味饭，将味道吹进碗中，并用残酷的“ dai，mangia！”放在我面前。我从来没有品尝过类似的东西。

And there isn’t anything quite like risotto, a creamy, luxurious rice dish that you get by toasting hard-grained rice in a little butter, stirring in chopped vegetables and other ingredients, and adding hot stock bit by bit, cooking slowly until the rice is al dente. Risotto’s consistency can vary from something resembling a thick soup to a creamy porridge. It can be as simple as rice, white wine, stock, and a little Parmesan cheese stirred in at the end, or more elaborate, studded with vegetables, seafood, or meat. Once you’ve mastered the basic technique, you can make an endless variety of risotti.

Risotto needs a high-starch rice and a heavy pot

There are no shortcuts to risotto (and if anyone ever comes out with an instant version, don’t buy it). Real risotto needs gradual cooking and the right rice.

使用标记为Arborio Superfino，Vialone Nano或Carnaroli的大米。All three are plump grains with a high starch content, which is what gives risotto its characteristic chewiness and creaminess. Arborio is easiest to find, and I think the easiest to work with. Vialone nano is starchier and makes a denser, creamier risotto, but it goes from al dente to overcooked in a flash. Carnaroli is the hardest of the three and takes the longest to cook. It’s the best choice if you must cook risotto ahead of time, the way many restaurants do.

选择一个带有非反应性衬里的重锅。A thick bottom and sides help distribute the heat evenly and prevent burning; I often use an All-Clad pot. A stainless-steel, anodized-aluminum, or enameled interior won’t react with high-acid ingredients such as white wine or tomato, which can turn gray in aluminum or unlined cast-iron pans.

木勺最适合搅拌烩饭。它比金属勺子更温和，不会刮擦锅的内部。

The first steps lay down layers of flavor

While some risotto recipes begin with a sauté of aromatic vegetables (known as a soffrito), into which you stir the raw rice, I prefer to start off with the rice.

用融化的黄油烤米饭可以使其变得糊状。这个简短的步骤非常重要。它在每种谷物周围产生一个外壳，使谷物可以缓慢地吸收水分，而不会像爆米花的核心一样潮湿或破裂。您最终会得到一个乳脂状的烩饭，但是每种谷物都保持着自己的形状，而不是糊状。

Add the chopped vegetables for a sweet, mellow flavor.Adding onion or garlic early, along with any other raw ingredients that require lengthy cooking (such as sausage or mushrooms), ensures that both their flavor and texture will blend well with the rice.

White wine adds a touch of acidity and deepens flavor.It’s important to add the wine before the stock, because direct contact with the bottom of the hot pot will help burn off the alcohol, leaving only the wine’s subtler flavor. A simple, dry wine works best; avoid those that are woody or sweet. While the recipes here use white wine, there’s another whole group of risotti that depend on red wine.

热量是乳脂状鸡蛋的关键

使意大利调味饭与所有其他米饭不同的是，它不仅是米饭与其他成分混合在一起，而且是两者的完美婚姻。betway电子竞技俱乐部热股用作融合剂，释放米饭的淀粉并使其乳脂状。

使用芳香，无盐的股票。股票不应太集中或美味。在烹饪过程中，您只需将股票减少到几汤匙，这将增强其口味和任何添加的调味料，尤其是盐的口味。如果您品尝股票，并且想吃更多的食物，它太集中了，将压倒意大利调味饭。我更喜欢使用自制库存，但是如果您必须使用罐头，则将其降低。

股票必须煮沸。加入热量是米饭彻底烹饪的唯一方法。热量可使温度保持更恒定的水平，以确保连续烹饪。

Add the stock in small batches.Rice loves to soak up liquid; it’s the gradual addition of stock and slow cooking that gives you the creamy result unique to great risotto. Adding all the cooking liquid at once would be more like boiling or steaming the rice—which is okay, but it’s not risotto.

剩菜烩饭的美味

Risotto is at its best served immediately. But if you happen to have some that remains, there are some delicious ways to use leftover risotto:

• Make fried rice balls (arancine) by molding risotto into golfball-size pieces. Poke a hole in the ball and fill it with chopped meat or cheese. Seal the hole with rice, roll the rice ball in beaten egg, toss it in flour, and fry.
• Make意大利饭蛋糕（Tortine de riso）通过将约3/4英寸厚的扁平蛋糕塑造，在面包屑中挖出，然后用橄榄油炒至金黄色。
• 加厚汤或肉汤，剩下的烩饭。

Constant stirring isn’t needed

我听说人们发誓，您必须在同一方向上搅动意大利调味饭，而不会停止，或者会被破坏，并且不断搅拌会释放更多米饭的淀粉。我发现既不正确。实际上，在二十分钟的烹饪时间内，意大利调味饭不需要持续关注。您只需要每隔几分钟检查一次盘子，对米饭进行搅拌以防止其粘住，并添加更多库存。

To test for doneness, take a bite.When the rice is cooked, it will have just about doubled in volume. Each grain will be plumped but not broken open. Take one grain and bite it in half; it should be chewy and resilient. Look at the other half. If there’s a tiny white pin-dot in the very center of the grain, it means that the risotto has the proper al dente quality.

使用“摇测”检查适当的一致性。The other trick to checking risotto for doneness is making sure that it isn’t too soupy or too porridgy. There are two schools of taste here: some prefer a looser, liquidy risotto; I like a thicker one.

烹饪饭后，您会搅拌更多的黄油（如果需要食谱）和帕马诺·雷吉亚诺（Parmigiano-Reggiano），品尝调味料，如果您愿意，您可以添加更多的盐和更多的汤料。

要测试一致性，请将一点倒入一个碗中，然后从一侧到另一侧轻轻摇动。意大利调味饭应自行轻轻分散。如果米饭静止不动，它太干了，因此请添加更多的汤料。如果在大米周围形成一定的液体，则添加了太多的库存。将一些液体倒出，或者让烩饭再静置几秒钟，以吸收多余的库存。