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甜和胡椒欧洲防风草

These humble root vegetables are wonderfully versatile in soups, mashes and braises.

精细烹饪问题84
照片:Scott Phillips
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不久前在一家餐厅吃饭时,我的羊肉订单带有美味的欧洲防风草和苹果格兰丁。服务员告诉我,直到最近才让厨师大胆,可以在菜单上准确描述它。以前,他称其为“萝卜和苹果格式”,因为他担心欧洲防风草可能会吓到人们。(关于萝卜的吸引力可能比欧洲防风草更吸引我的想法使我有些逗乐。)在另一道菜中,欧洲防风草被“白胡萝卜”偷偷摸摸。

我认为低调的理想是应得的。是的,欧洲防风草看起来确实像杂草丛生的白胡萝卜(毕竟它们与胡萝卜有关),但是它们的味道更为复杂。它们像胡萝卜一样甜美,也许更是如此,但它们也很富有,泥土,微弱的胡椒和有点坚果。对于某些人来说,这是一种获得的味道,但是对我来说,这是值得的。我也喜欢欧洲防风草的多功能性。它们是烤或炒的,炖的,甚至是汤和土豆泥 - 它们制作了很棒的配菜,并配有丰富的冬季肉类菜,例如炖的短肋骨,羊腿,锅,锅烤和烤鸭。

如何准备

Simply trim away the tops and bottoms and peel them, just as you would with carrots. Parsnips have a core that can be tough and fibrous, especially in the thick upper part of the root. It’s best to cut out that inner core.

欧洲防风草是在秋天进入季节的,但在冬季中旬处于最佳状态。它们的出售宽松或以1磅重的塑料袋出售。无论哪种方式,都要寻找坚固而沉重的根源。尺寸本身并不重要,但是较大的欧洲防风草通常具有坚硬,纤维状的核心,应至少从根部厚的上半部去除。将欧洲防风草放在松散封闭的塑料袋中(不要绑住;您希望空气流通)在冰箱的酥脆抽屉中。他们会保留几个星期。

Parsnips are especially good with fruits and vegetables harvested in the same season, such as apples and pears, as well as with potatoes, carrots, turnips, and beets. Sometimes I play up their natural sweetness with brown sugar, maple syrup, or apple cider; other times, I add a counterpoint with a good sherry, cider, or wine vinegar. Balsamic works well, too, lending flavors both sour and sweet.

烹饪欧洲防风的三种方法

Parsnips are so versatile they can be cooked almost any way you want. Here are some quick ideas for mashing, roasting, and braising.

Mashed or puréed:I usually start with boiled parsnips, but roasted parsnips are also delicious for these mashes and purées.

  • 用奶油,牛奶和黄油煮熟了欧洲防风草。用盐和胡椒粉以及一汤匙或两个雪利酒或马德拉酱调味。如果您愿意,将切碎的核桃或山核桃撒在浅烤盘上,撒在顶部,然后烘烤直至在顶部浅褐色。
  • 泥制成的欧洲防风草和胡萝卜煮了一点奶油,用盐和一点白胡椒粉调味,然后搅拌一些切碎的结晶姜。
  • 要扭转苹果酱,将欧洲防风草和酸苹果煮沸。加入黄油,新鲜磨碎的肉豆蔻,少许柠檬汁和皮。与烤鸡,火鸡,鸭或鹅一起食用。

烤:通常,当我烤蔬菜时,我可以拿到橄榄油。(遵循食谱中的一般时间和温度指南Roasted Parsnips with Cinnamon & Coriander。)您可以将它们减半,切成火柴或块。

  • Toss a blend of parsnips and carrots in olive oil, salt, and pepper and roast until tender and lightly caramelized. Stir in some cilantro pesto.
  • 为了获得五颜六色的混血儿,将欧洲防风草,萝卜,甜菜和红薯扔掉,加油,胡椒粉和小辣椒。烤直到几乎变软。搅拌大量切碎的欧芹,一些切碎的大蒜和柠檬皮,然后完成烘烤。
  • 将欧洲防风草以油,盐和胡椒粉扔掉,然后用整个葱烘烤,直到几乎变软。淋上枫糖浆和新鲜橙汁的混合物,扔一些切碎的迷迭香,然后完成烘烤。

Braised:When braising, I like to cut parsnips crosswise into 1-inch pieces; then I cut the thicker pieces in halves or quarters to get chunks of roughly equal size. I start by browning the pieces in a fat—I like butter, but olive or vegetable oil works well, too.

  • As the parsnips brown, season with a healthy sprinkle of chopped fresh sage. Then simmer in apple cider until the parsnips are tender and the cider boils away to a brown glaze.
  • Brown the parsnips, season with salt and pepper, toss in a few thyme sprigs, and braise in chicken broth until tender.
  • Combine parsnips with 2-inch chunks of leek and brown. Add salt and pepper, deglaze the pan with white wine or dry vermouth, and let it boil away. Add a little water, cover, and cook until tender.
Roasted Parsnips with Cinnamon & Coriander

在花园里

欧洲防风草需要一个松散,劳累的,肥沃的土壤和整个生长季节才能成熟。与胡萝卜一样,在春季将种子直接播种在花园中,并保持湿润,直到发芽为止,这可能需要三个星期。在秋天后期,将顶部剪断,留下足够的时间来看看植物的位置,然后开始收获。随着天气变冷,味道会改善,霜冻将一些欧洲防风草的淀粉转化为糖。

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