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How-To

The Shortcake in Winter

为什么要等草莓?诸如蔓越莓,梨和石榴等冬季水果也可以在脆饼甜点中闪耀。

February/March 2015 Issue
Photos: Scott Phillips
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I wish I had some kind of quaint and heartfelt strawberry shortcake story to share, but I don’t. I just really, really love shortcake, from the tender, buttery, on-the-verge-of-being-cake biscuit to the way the juice from summer-sweet berries soaks into the crumb to that tuft of whipped cream on top. Unfortunately, here in New York City, where I live, strawberry season peaks in early June and fades in the blink of an eye. So what’s a shortcake lover like me to do the rest of the year? Get creative, that’s what. The desserts I’m sharing here revel in fruits not normally associated with shortcakes, fromtart cranberriesand甜梨tobright mangoesandfun-to-eat pomegranates, all of which make for exciting, unexpected takes on a classic treat.

A little heat helps soften firm fruit.Making a shortcake in the summer is a no-brainer since ripe, juicy berries and stone fruits practically come with a built-in sauce. As I played with different fruits, I found that poaching, roasting, or sautéing them helps a lot. The heat encourages soft textures, coaxes out juices, and rounds flavor. Heating the fruit also provides opportunities to add spices, from cardamom in a syrup to spice fresh mangoes to ginger and cloves simmered with cranberries until they burst and become jammy.

蛋糕本身也很适合调味。通过不使用浆果,我已经在用酥油蛋糕进行了创意自由,因此我决定尝试添加额外的食材,例如杏仁粉(如此decade废),玉米面(甜美而家常)和可可粉(巧克力,YUM!)。betway电子竞技俱乐部

The secret ingredient: hard-cooked eggs.No matter which extra ingredient I used, I kept the same basic dough, which includes butter (lots), sour cream, and two hard-cooked egg yolks. The yolk may sound weird, but it’s a tried-and-true trick made popular by James Beard, the forefather of American cuisine, who got the idea from his mother. Pastry chefs in Europe also are known to add hard-cooked egg yolks to doughs to introduce more fat without contributing potentially toughening moisture. It works like a charm. (For the easiest way to hard-cook your eggs, see our“boil-and-walk-away” method, but you can even use the pre-cooked eggs from the supermarket.)

A creamy topping takes the cake.我还可以在其中一些快捷饼中使用通常的鲜奶油奶油浇头,例如将Oozy Blue Cheese Butter与焦糖梨和奶油色味酸奶和甜芒果配对。草莓酥饼总是在我心中有一个特殊的位置,但是这些冬季酥饼使我在此期间感到非常高兴。我希望他们也能让你快乐。


What does the “short” in shortcake mean?

酥饼不称为酥饼,因为它的身材矮小。这是因为内部“短”。这意味着它含有大量脂肪,以使麸质链短,从而产生嫩的蛋糕饼干。

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