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How-To

Two Chefs, Same Ingredients: Two Deliciously Different Dishes

专业人士如何创建新菜?为了找出答案,我们给了两位创新的厨师,并要求他们俩即兴创作

精细烹饪问题35
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也许这发生在你身上。您正在超市,农贸市场或农产品商店徘徊,注视着商品。茴香看起来很棒,有漂亮的猪腰带出售,刚刚卸载的精致,多叶的纳帕白菜的头部正在从过道上呼唤您的名字。您已经在家里有一些土豆,您很想用尽一些在今年夏天的花园中仍然坚固的细香葱……。

So how do you transform market inspiration into delicious dishes? We gave two of our favoriteFine Cooking作者是同一市场的成分,并要求他们向我们展示它们如何即兴创作。betway电子竞技俱乐部Here are the delicious—and completely different—dishes that Katy Sparks, the chef at Quilty’s in New York City, and Alan Tardi, the chef and owner of Follonico (also in New York City), came up with, along with the technique and reasoning they applied.

游戏规则

Katy and Alan started with the same five market ingredients. They were allowed to drop one of those ingredients, to use unlimited ingredients from a basic pantry, and to choose up to three “wild-card” ingredients.

Market ingredients
Boneless pork loin, Napa cabbage, fennel, new potatoes, chives

基本食品储藏室
Butter, vegetable oil, olive oil, cream, milk, eggs, flour, garlic, onions, pepper, salt, stock (beef, chicken, or vegetable), sugar, vinegar, water, white wine

外卡
Any condiment, flavoring, fruit, herb, meat, spice, starch, or vegetable

Katy Sparks calls on autumnal flavors

我喜欢季节性烹饪,我在创建这个时会想到口味. To start, I picked up on the pork’s earthy flavors by studding it with garlic. In autumn, I love the way the market smells like apples, and I love apples paired with pork (that’s probably because of my mother’s pork with applesauce). So I made an apple cider glaze and added ginger (using two wild cards) because ginger’s spicy warmth really awakens fruit flavors. The glaze gives an appealing sweet-tart counterpoint to garlic’s earthiness. So far, the mix of market ingredients has a traditional, hearty, northern European feel. Cabbage would fit right in, but I decided to drop it to lighten the dish up and to make it feel more modern because that’s more my style.

我选择整体烤猪里脊肉,而不是将其切成碎片,因为我喜欢通过烤整个腰部通过烤制的焦糖外部与多汁的内饰的比例。烘烤脊椎的整体也使其保持湿润。而且由于猪肉需要水分,所以我还想做酱汁。在家里,我没有一系列减少的库存和Demi-glaces可以使用,就像我在餐厅一样。因此,我决定将茴香用作酱汁底座,而不是做大量的减少酱汁。我喜欢茴香的精致口味:褐变只会加剧它们,然后您可以用葡萄酒,汤和黄油扩展整个东西。对于丝滑的对比,我做了土豆泥。如果您选择使用它,我的第三张通配符 - 头部,奢华的白松露油是冠状的。

“一旦我把这道菜放在一起,我就知道这是我想和朋友一起吃的东西,”纽约市Quilty's的厨师Katy Sparks说。

艾伦·塔迪(Alan Tardi)选择了质朴的炖

I decided to create athat reflects the way I’d cook at home on a Sunday night in the fall. Except for the chives, all the ingredients take well to long cooking. I used everything in the basket and added two wild cards: fennel seed to accent the fresh fennel, and toasted breadcrumbs, which provide both textural counterpoint and eye appeal. I decided to cut the pork into medallions rather than leave it as a whole roast because, with medallions, more surface comes in contact with the flavors in the braising liquid.

For this type of a slow-cooking cool-weather dish, I like to use a traditional Italian method of braising pork in milk. Milk’s lactic acid is a good tenderizer, but it seems to need heat to activate it. (I’ve tried soaking the pork in milk overnight ahead of time, but this doesn’t seem to have any tenderizing effect.) The resulting milk curds in the finished dish may look a little strange if you’ve never tried milk-braising before, but don’t worry—you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful, rustic, one-dish meal.

The vegetables in the market basket are a natural for a pork braise because they all turn velvety-tender when cooked low and slow, and they contribute a lot of flavor to the cooking liquid. Braising also makes for a streamlined process, and at the outset, I’d decided to make an unfussy dish. I do take an extra step with one ingredient, however: I parboil the potatoes before I add them to the pan to make sure they’re done at about the same time as the cabbage and the fennel. Cooking time can vary with potatoes, depending on their size, age, and variety, so I get more control this way. Finishing the dish with a breadcrumb-chive mixture gives a golden topping that provides a good crunch and completes the homey feel.

“这就是我在周日晚上在天气变冷的时候在家做饭的方式,”纽约市Follonico的厨师Alan Tardi说。

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