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How-To

香蕉与太妃糖扭蛋挞

一层焦糖太妃糖,香蕉和鲜奶油,都在类似饼干的外壳上,制作了一个名为“ Banoffee”的蛋

精细烹饪问题50
照片,除了指出:马克·托马斯(Mark Thomas)
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As so many unexpected love connections are now made, I became hooked on this tart while surfing the Web.

每年的这个时候,我的超市提供的是柑橘和香蕉的新鲜水果。我正在寻找一个香蕉,无论如何,都有不同的食谱。那是我来的Banoffee Pie页面, an entire Web site “dedicated to the best pudding in the world” (“pudding” means dessert in the U.K.). And what a dessert it is, with its rich caramel base, banana midriff, and lofty whipped cream crown.

While the Hungry Monk restaurant in Sussex, England, lays claim to “inventing” banoffee (pronounced bah-naw-fee) back in 1971, this dessert has evolved over the years. I’ve tried the Hungry Monk’s recipe, and it’s good. But I’ll modestly argue that if you follow my recipe here, you’ll not only get better results, but you also won’t have to risk sacrificing your life in the process (read on about the “toffee”).

在那条大胆的奶油下,撒谎三层风味和质地

从Banoffee的底部开始是一个厚实的饼干壳,它是酥脆的味道,这种类型在叉子的压力下轻轻而果断地刺穿。散布在它上面是一个粘糊糊的焦糖基础,英国人称之为“太妃糖”,因此名称:香蕉 +太妃糖= Banoffee。

Next on deck is a single layer of banana halves that covers the caramel layer in snug, concentric circles. The bananas, caramel, and crisp pastry crust are then covered in a downy shroud of whipped cream, barely sweetened, to counter the caramel spread. Finally, a scant measurement of powdered instant coffee is sprinkled on top. Immediately dissolving into the cream, it lends a breath of roasted bitterness that nudges this immodest dessert toward at least appearing adult.

使“太妃糖”填充很慢,但容易

饥饿的和尚的太妃糖方法是chancy(尽管这不是秘密;该方法类似于我看到的食谱,因为我用来制作dulce de leche或cajeta,这是一种在拉丁美洲烹饪中使用的焦糖)。食谱的方式如下:将两罐未封闭的甜炼乳浸入沸水中,盖上盖子和煮沸五个小时。但是请注意接下来的谨慎:切勿让水壶干燥或罐子爆炸“造成生命,肢体和厨房天花板的严重风险”。害怕。

无论如何,我尝试了。但是除了担心之外,我不在乎这种古怪的方法,因为我无法监视密封罐中焦糖的进度。我煮了四个小时,发现焦糖太远了。

之后,我尝试将甜炼乳倒入锅中,然后直接用热量烹饪。这需要持续的关注,牛奶仍然倾向于烹饪太快,被燃烧的糖块所困扰。此后,我已经开发了一种在双锅炉中烹饪牛奶的方法(顺便说一句,我只使用一个罐头;两个使我的牙齿疼痛)。这是一个三小时的过程。但是,除了检查水位并每45分钟大约一次搅拌之外,几乎不需要注意。

The best crust is a short, snappy one

确实,如果这种甜点面临任何烹饪挑战,那就是外壳。我已经看到了许多食谱,试图通过用压碎的graham饼干制作面包屑来捷径。但是我发现使这种特殊的外壳足够容易,更好。

First off, I keep the mixing process as simple as counting. It’s not like a flaky crust, in which you have to judiciously cut the butter into the flour mixture and never overmix. Nor do you want to blend the butter so thoroughly into the flour that it’s no longer recognizable, as many short crusts require. To keep my crust tender and even a bit flaky, I like to negotiate between the two techniques. I pulse the food processor so that the butter gets cut in but is still recognizable; there should even be some pieces still the size of peas. Then, when I pour in the cream and egg yolk, I process just enough to blend without having the dough come together. It should still be crumbly. But if you do overprocess the butter, you’re still safe. The fat from the cream and the egg yolk not only adds richness but also helps to minimize gluten formation, which would otherwise toughen the crust. The sugar also helps to inhibit gluten.

In fact, this dough is so remarkably tender that it’s easier to press it out into the pan than to roll it. This is good news since most short crust recipes require a one- to two-hour rest in the refrigerator before the dough can handle being rolled out. An added bonus to pressing it out with your fingers is that an extra thickness of dough tends to build up along the crease where the pan sides meet the base. This helps fortify the sides so that they’re less apt to slip down during baking.

从那里开始,这只是切成薄片,搅打奶油,撒在压碎的咖啡颗粒上并为客人服务的问题。

The five-second pulse: cut the butter into the flour with five quick pulses of the food processor.Scott Phillips
保持易碎。加入蛋黄和奶油,再混合十秒钟,面团看起来像粗餐。
拍打并按碗,直到混合物形成一个内聚球。
放下太妃糖。一罐甜炼乳是使这种焦糖馅料填充所需的全部。
饱满鲜奶油。将其勺子倒入,将汤匙拉开时提起一些奶油。
The final touch: a sprinkling of crushed coffee granules to melt into the cream.

使Banoffee提前的提示

最多三天
•制作焦糖;紧紧盖住并冷藏。

前一天
• Bake the crust; once cooled, wrap tightly in plastic wrap or an extra-large zip-top bag.

A few hours before serving
•将焦糖加热到双锅炉中(或在沸腾的水上耐热碗中),足以软化;将焦糖撒在地壳中;用保鲜膜紧紧盖住。
•将奶油搅打成软峰;转移到碗上的大型网状筛子上,以捕获任何沉降的液体;寒意,发现。
•将咖啡颗粒放入一个小型拉链袋中。

就在上菜前
• Slice the bananas and arrange on top of the caramel.
• Spoon on the whipped cream.
• Crush the coffee granules with a rolling pin and sprinkle on top.

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