Bouillabaisse has the power to transport me to the Vieux Port de Marseilles in a single bite. It’s a hearty, brothy fish stew with a near-perfect flavor balance of fresh seafood, safron, fennel, and orange, served with rouilles lathered croutons. Just one taste and I hear the calls of waiters enticing me into their bistros as sailboat halyards ping against masts in the background. The Marseillais take their bouillabaisse (pronounced boo-ya-behs) very seriously and claim that it cannot be made anywhere else. Not so. I’ve lived in France, and I know from experience that a wonderful bouillabaisse can be made in any kitchen in any country.

The foundation of a great bouillabaisse is the fish broth. It’s traditional to make it with several fish varieties so each can add its own flavor. You don’t, however, need to import fish from the Mediterranean. Instead, buy the freshest sustainable fish available to you locally, and pass the cooked broth ingredients through a food mill so you get every last drop of flavor from them. It makes all the difference.

The rest of the soup comes together easily: Marinate four kinds of white fish fillets and then poach them in the fish broth. Cook the potatoes in the broth, too. Simple croutons topped with rouille—a coarse paste of garlic, cayenne, breadcrumbs, cooked potato, fish broth, and olive oil—bring a garlicky note to the dish and soak up the fragrant broth.

当然，Bouillabaisse花了一个下午的时间来制作，但这是一顿令人震惊的一餐，绝对值得一提。试试看，您很快就会感觉到温暖的地中海微风，听到海浪在港口的渔船上的一巴掌 - 所有人都没有离开家。

Eight steps to a showstopping bouillabaisse

选择瘦，坚固的白鱼

If the Marseillais had their way, bouillabaisse would be made with at least four (but preferably more) varieties of local Mediterranean fish, including scorpion fish, conger eel, sea robin, and monkfish. It would also be made only within 100 kilometers of the city.

But the truth is, any combination of four fresh, lean, moderately firm varieties of white fish will make a delicious bouillabaisse. (Look for local and sustainable choices; the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch and the Blue Ocean Institute’s Seafood Guide are two reliable sources for information.) Some good options:

•大西洋Pollock（野生，家庭或加拿大）
•Barramundi（耕种，国内）
• Black rockfish (also known as black rock cod and black snapper; hook-and-line caught, Alaska)
•黑海鲈鱼(wild, north- and mid-Atlantic waters)
•Halibut（野生，太平洋）
• Pacificcod(bottom longline-caught, domestic)
• Pacific lingcod (not actually a cod, but a member of the greenling family; wild, domestic or Canadian)
• Porgy (also known as scup; wild, Atlantic)
•黑貂鱼（也称为黑鳕鱼；野生，阿拉斯加或不列颠哥伦比亚省）
•Striped bass(wild or farmed, domestic)

将bouillabaisse作为一顿一顿

在法国，Bouillabaisse最常在餐馆吃饭，在那里用作两道菜的餐点。首先，将芳香的鱼汤碗配上鲁alle面包屑，上面漂浮在顶部。然后，将煮熟的整条鱼放在盘子上和圆角桌子上。可以肯定的是，这是一个戏剧性的演讲，但对于家庭厨师来说不是很实际。

My bouillabaisse is served plated, with fish, broth, potatoes, and croutons in each bowl for an all-in-one meal. Use wide, shallow soup bowls for the best presentation. In a nod to tradition, I put the fish skin side up in each bowl to show off the different types of fish (plus, it’s pretty that way). I like to serve additional fish broth in a warm sauce pitcher, and pass around bowls of extra croutons and rouille, too.