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如何

一半的真正烤豆

For that sweet, old-fashioned flavor, you don’t need to bake beans for hours—just turn up the heat

精心烹饪Issue 45
照片:Scott Phillips
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Baked beans, first made by Native Americans, have held steadfast as a favorite classic American dish. While there have been some major changes—pork fat in place of bear fat, a pot instead of a deer hide, an oven in lieu of a stone-lined pit—this tender, sweet side dish has not only persevered but is still immensely popular. I know this because I bake more than 100 pounds of beans a week at my restaurant,夏季, in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Our Saturday night special is franks and beans with brown bread, and we serve baked beans every day alongside our cod cakes. People also order them a la carte to go with everything from steamed lobster to fried chicken. And I personally think this humble dish is great with roast pork.

没有一个完美的干豆烘烤;选择区域性最爱

Most Yankees will agree that the pea bean, similar to the navy bean, is the most authentic and traditional baked-beans bean. That is, unless you’re from Maine, where the yellow-eye bean, also called the Stueben yellow-eye, is more popular. Still others will tell you that a bean called Jacob’s Cattle is the secret to great baked beans.

You can try this recipe with almost any dried bean; I’ve even had great results with dried lima beans. You just need to adjust the cooking time (allowing more for larger beans, like yellow-eyes), and adding more water as needed. Actually, you need to make adjustments every time you bake beans, as even beans of the same variety vary: older beans, for example, take longer to soften, and they absorb more liquid.

我已经用海军豆(易于找到,通常是豌豆豆或混合物,豌豆和海军豆)和黄眼豆测试了这种特殊的食谱;两者的味道很棒,但是黄眼通常需要更长的时间才能烘烤。

在烘烤之前,将豆子浸泡在充足的水中。有些人相信您可以跳过这一步骤。我想你可以,但是你的烤豆子将永远花费。

除豆子以外还有什么?

盐猪肉来自猪的腹部(如培根),是盐腌制但没有熏制的。寻找盐猪肉和珍珠白脂肪和许多条纹粉红色的肉。大多数超级市场都携带它,但是您可以代替平板培根。烟熏培根添加并不是传统的,但很美味。(实际上,很难说我的家人更喜欢用盐猪肉制成的豆子或用培根制成的豆子。)无论您使用哪种,都会用一块果皮去除果皮,然后将果皮添加到锅中,然后用豆子锅。它将使豆类具有更高的稠度。另外,如果您首先部分冷冻盐猪肉或板培根,那么切成薄片就更容易。

传统的另一个突破是:煮猪肉直到黄金。Traditionally, the salt pork should cook slowly with the beans. But I’ve come to realize that the soft, unrendered pork fat is a textural experience that’s foreign to most modern Americans. I now cook the salt pork (or bacon) to a crisp golden color to render most of the fat before I add anything else to the pot. These little meaty pieces seem far more acceptable to the modern palate, and because I leave the fat in the pot, the dish doesn’t suffer at all.

富裕风味的第一步是将盐猪肉或培根褐色。然后加入洋葱和炒。

甜味剂,是的,但是一点热也很好

我的食谱中的豆类味道,就像您期望新英格兰风格的豆一样的味道。我用等量的糖蜜和枫糖浆将它们加糖,但是您可以使用不同的口粮或全部或另一种。我还添加调味剂以使其更加复杂,但含量适中,因此不会完全掩盖豆的味道。Dijon Mustard,番茄酱(或我的偏爱,Heinz智利酱)和Worcestershire Sauce增加了一点热量和香料以减少甜味。也欢迎一些切碎的大蒜,用盐猪肉炒。豆子完全煮熟后,我会加入苹果棒醋,因为酸会增强豆子。

Cook the beans relatively hot

烤箱中的烤豆提供稳定的热量,使它们均匀地煮熟。在炉子的顶部烹饪它们可能需要偶尔搅拌它们,这可能会使它们分解并使它们太糊状。

传统上,烤豆在非常低的温度(225°至250°F)中煮熟。我发现(如果您想知道真相,偶然地发现烤豆可以在更高的温度下烹饪,并取得巨大的成功。通过从350°F开始,我的豆类不仅在更传统的食谱的一半时间内烹饪,而且还需要减少养育。

上菜前轻轻搅拌。当豆子非常柔软,嫩而仍然保持形状时,这些豆是完成的。在这一点上,我轻轻搅拌它们以释放出一些淀粉,这会使液体变稠。注意此时不要过度混合。让他们静置约20分钟,然后再上菜,让您准备好热狗和凉拌卷心菜,并让豆类充分味道。豆子将在冰箱中持续几天,并味道更好地加热。

柔软而柔软,但不会崩溃,这些豆是完成烘烤的,因此作者给了他们温和的搅拌以释放淀粉。

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