Preparation

• Rinse and drain the spinach. (You needn’t dry it completely; clinging droplets of water are fine.) Heat the olive oil in a large, deep Dutch oven or wok over medium heat. Add the scallion whites and cook, stirring, until they start to soften, about 1 minute. Pile in the spinach and cook, turning with tongs so it gets evenly heated. (You’ll need to add the spinach in stages; as it heats, it will shrink.) Once all the spinach is in the pan, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until all the leaves have wilted and released their liquid, about 2 min. Uncover the pan, increase the heat to high, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is very soft, about 5 min. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving, reheat gently, adding the scallion greens, lemon zest, and grated nutmeg. Drain briefly in a colander before serving.