在我最近去西班牙赫雷斯的旅行中，雪利酒是桌上唯一的饮料。无论是陪伴下午的小吃炸鱼，餐前的餐厅和干香肠，还是一堆丰盛的炖蘑菇和牛肉脸颊，都是雪利酒。

Now, hold on: No doubt your thoughts immediately turn to cheap cooking sherry or sickly, syrupy apéritifs, and you can’t imagine serving these by themselves, let alone with good food. Believe me, those imposters aren’t real sherry. True sherry is a vibrant, versatile wine that partners seamlessly with food, savory and sweet. It’s full of zest and acidity, which gives it a refreshing quality, and its slightly saline note acts like a dash of sea salt on anything you’re eating. Plus, the real virtue of sherry as a great food wine is the range of styles available, from light and bone-dry to richly sweet, with deep brown-sugar flavor (yes, there are even delicious sweet sherries that are well worth savoring with dessert). All of which points to there being a sherry for just about everything on the table.

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雪利酒风格

This fortified wine (meaning that it’s had extra alcohol added to it) comes from a swath of coast-line in southern Spain around the town of Jerez, where cool sea breezes, ample sun, humid warmth, and chalky soils are responsible for the wine’s mouthwatering vibrancy. The differences between one style and another all lie in how the wine is made. Once the local white Palomino grapes are crushed and the juice fermented, the winemaker takes his cues entirely from his brew to determine what style of sherry each barrel will become. In this way, sherry production is more an intuitive art form than it is a precise science.

All sherries start out the same, but in some barrels, a blanket of fluffy white yeast called “flor” blooms across the surface of the wine. This wine is destined to become fino, the driest and palest of sherries. This variety of flor, which doesn’t develop anywhere else in the world and is unique to sherry, protects the wine from air, preventing it from oxidizing and taking on color. To keep the yeast healthy, the cellar master fortifies the sherry by adding some alcohol (about 15 percent, meaning that every 100 ml of wine will contain 15 ml of alcohol). All this yields a delicate wine with a refreshing green apple crispness and a nutty, yeasty tang.

像烤坚果和薯条这样的咸零食（或者就是炸薯条），是Fino酸度酸度的完美搭配。它的美味还使其成为白鱼，沙拉和绿色蔬菜等轻型食物的选择。

Sometimes a sherry that begins its life as a fino deviates from this path. This happens when the flor dies unexpectedly during aging, exposing the wine to oxygen and turning it darker and deeper in flavor. The winemaker will then add a more substantial dose of alcohol to discourage unwanted yeasts from colonizing and to slow the oxidation process. These partially oxidized wines become amontillado. They meld fino’s freshness and acidity with notes of toasted nuts and caramel, a combination that gives this sherry the perfect heft to carry a whole meal.

Amontillado既不是太细腻也不太丰富，是最通用的雪利酒。它与各种成分相处得非常好，并有利于从烟熏鱼和烤鸡到臭名昭著的鸡蛋，洋蓟和芦笋的食物。betway电子竞技俱乐部

当佛罗里达州从未真正赶上时，生产了另一种干雪利酒Oloroso Seco。从一开始，这种酒将其加强到17％或18％，使流氓酵母避开。没有一层佛罗里达，雪利酒将成熟到桃花心木棕色。这款非常丰富的雪利酒是沉重的烤水果覆盖物，有时还带有深色枫木和灼热的橙色味。

Bring out oloroso for the dishes with the deepest flavors, such as grilled steaks, braised beef cheeks, gamey meats, roasted mushrooms, and rich, funky cheeses. It can work well with rich, briny shellfish, too, such as scallops and lobster.

Not to neglect the best part of a meal, there are sweet sherries to accompany dessert. The dulce, or cream, variety is usually made by adding a hefty dose of grape syrup or sweet wine made from the heady Muscatellike Pedro Ximénez grape to a dry sherry. The most reliable choice is oloroso dulce, which combines the best attributes of a dry oloroso with a toffee-like sweetness, and is delicious with cheeses, nut pies, and chocolate desserts.

For a seriously hedonistic experience, opt for a type of sweet sherry made exclusively from Pedro Ximénez grapes and labeled simply P.X. As thick as molasses, with intensely sweet notes of burnt orange, caramel, spice, and nuts, P.X. is perfect for drizzling over ice cream or sipping with a dessert. You can even enjoy it on its own, as I did in Jerez—dessert in a glass. Indeed, with sherry as the singular liquid accompaniment to dish after dish, and meal after meal, it seemed only fair to savor it by itself at least once.

A Thanksgiving Wine

感恩节的餐点是一种狂野的风味，选择一杯酒与他们一起搭配是一个挑战。输入Amontillado。凭借其固有的多功能性，Amontillado可以处理各种开胃菜，从苦菜沙拉到烟熏鱼到奶油汤。至于土耳其，Amontillado与精致的白肉和更深味的深色肉都很好地协调。它与烤蔬菜和所有其他三层饰物的方式相同，以同等的方式搭配香料和甜味。尽管它具有丰富的风味，但Amontillado仍然具有那种标志性的酸度，可以使您精神焕发并为更多的马拉松餐中的钥匙准备好了。

购物雪利酒

There’s a sherry to suit every menu, from bright and zesty fino for a cocktail party with small bites to toffee-rich dulce to match your most indulgent desserts.

Fino

Amontillado

Oloroso Seco

甜雪利酒

Sherry Know-How

Buying
Look for bottles labeled Jerez-Xérès or Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda. These indicate a denomination of origin, an official designation ensuring that the wines come from a defined area in and around the Spanish town of Jerez and that they meet specific standards set by a regulatory board.

存储
It’s best to store opened sherry in the refrigerator. Unlike most wines, it keeps for weeks after opening if you seal it well and put it in a uniformly cold, undisturbed spot at the back of the fridge.

Serving
•Fino可以直接从冰箱里喝醉；寒意将发挥他们的清爽特征。

• Pull an amontillado or oloroso from the refrigerator about a half-hour before dinner to take the edge off the chill—this will help bring out the sherry’s expansive, warm scents and flavors.

• Serve sweet sherry at brisk room temperature.

•c时omes to glassware, forget those thimble-size sherry glasses. Like any other wine, dry sherry deserves a glass that has a bowl ample enough to let its gorgeous aromas expand. Dessert sherry can be served in a dessert wine glass—smaller but still big enough to capture its scent.