A.K.A

romano cheese

What is it?

To those who buy it in American supermarkets, pecorino is often a dry, tangy, oversalted hard cheese that’s hardly fit for grating onto pasta. But there are dozens of varieties, each with its own texture and flavor. In some of its best versions, pecorino is a rich, earthy, pleasantly sharp and peppery cheese with a firm yet creamy texture that’s perfect for nibbling.

Pecorino (derived frompecora,意大利羊)的羊奶奶酪been produced all over central and southern Italy since well before the rise of the Roman Empire. Made with either pasteurized or unpasteurized milk, pecorino can be aged anywhere from 20 days-resulting in a soft-textured, mild-flavored cheese with an edible rind-to up to a year for harder, more pungent cheeses. Its many varieties are grouped into four main government-protected regional categories (D.O.P.) subject to strict production rules: Toscano, made in Tuscany; Sardo, from the island of Sardinia; Siciliano, produced in Sicily; and Romano, mainly from the countryside around Rome.

The last, which is saltier than other pecorinos, is primarily a grating cheese when aged. The mass-produced pecorinos we’re used to seeing in grocery stores are also romanos, but they’re a far cry from their artisanal cousins.

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Recipes

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  Mashed Cauliflower with Garlic and Anchovy

  This rich mash works well as a side, but my favorite way to serve it is heaped on crostini for a robust nibble.

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  Pasta with Crab and Pancetta

  This quick and easy pasta may remind you of carbonara, but with sweet crab and the bright zing of lemon.

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  Pasta with Roasted Fennel and Tomatoes

  As the fennel and tomatoes roast, their juices mingle to create a luscious sauce. Finocchiona, salami flavored with fennel seeds (finocchio is Italian for fennel), reinforces the fennel flavor of…

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  Whole-Grain Penne with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Corn

  Sweet, chewy dried tomatoes and brown butter infused with orange zest and spicy chile boost the whole-grain flavors of the pasta in this simple yet scrumptious weeknight dish. Thai basil…

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  Cavatelli with Shiitake Mushrooms, Asparagus, and Pesto

  Basil pesto and asparagus add spring-like color and flavor to pasta and mushrooms. If you can find fresh cavatelli, all the better.

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  Citrus and Sheep's Milk Cheese Butter

  Bianco Sardo is a sheepy aged Sardinian cheese. Its tang pairs nicely with that of citrus, and since it’s not too salty, it won’t overpower fruit notes. If you can’t…

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  Ramp Pesto on Toast with Burrata and Peppadews

  Garlicky spring ramps (wild leeks) make an insanely delicious pesto, an idea I first learned about from my friend, New York chef Matt Weingarten. Here, I use lightly roasted pistachios…

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  Pea and Artichoke Dip

  Here’s a new take on the classic baked artichoke dip. It may be retro, but it’s always the first to go at parties. Peas give it a beautiful color and…

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  Roasted Potato and Rosemary Pizza

  A pizza enjoyed during a trip to Rome 25 years ago was the inspiration for this pie. Its genius lies in its simplicity: thin slices of potato made fragrant with…

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  Pasta with Yogurt and Caramelized Onions

  When cookbook author Diane Kochilas began dressing pasta with yogurt, her intention was to adapt a classic Greek island dish that required an obscure cheese called sitaka. But, in doing…